Is this still a fit? 🤔
Following Jude's heroics, this week we're looking at the Marks & Spencer tailor partnership with the England national team. Should M&S renew the deal? 🤑
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In 2022, the England team announced two partnerships with Marks & Spencer (M&S). An Official Tailor partnership spanning 3 years. As well as a partnership with M&S Food to inspire families to make healthier eating choices.
These partnerships build on the long-standing relationship the two have shared since 2007. This long-standing relationship would suggest it’s been a worthwhile investment for M&S. In 2007 when the partnership initially started, M&S were the official suit supplier to the England Senior Men’s team. Suits were designed by Timothy Everest for Phil Neville and the gang. Up until very recently, formal wear suits were the norm for footballers. Whether this was pre-match in the tunnel or on the pitch before kick-off. Players previously had to conform to traditions. In an attempt to maintain the image of the organisations they are governed by.
As this partnership between England and M&S progressed, the 2018 World Cup was when it peaked. London was good vibes. The England team exceeded expectations on-field. Southgate mania swept the nation. The nation united and that £65 waistcoat is football heritage. 🤌 It was a sweet concoction. Resulting in #WaistcoatWednesday and #luckywaistcoat trending. Sales across all M&S waistcoats doubled during the 2018 World Cup.
However, fast-forward to 2024 and the fashion x football wave has finally been accepted. Barcelona are championing a NBA-inspired tunnel fits formula. The top ballers are front row at fashion week and clubs are showcasing players fits before training. Players are now allowed to express their interests in fashion. As a result, fans have regular insight on what their favourite players are wearing through social media.
To mark the start of this Euros, the M&S x England collection was launched. It’s an evolution from the suits in 2007. This new collection is being dubbed ‘stylish casual menswear’. It features smart bomber jackets and over shirts in beige and black tones. The next generation of England’s superstars feature the likes of Jude Bellingham, Phil Foden and Mainoo. Gen Z’s favourite ballers are showing love to brands like Denim Tears, Louis Vuitton and Drama Call. I don’t think I’ve ever seen them wear anything from M&S on their feeds. The M&S x England collection does not align with this new generation’s fashion interests.
This makes it tough to get players to promote the M&S partnership with the authenticity required. Coupled with the de-influencing trend, where Gen Z will call out inauthentic partnerships. This is a problem that will negatively impact sales of this collection. The shoot itself below looks uncomfortable for the players. Aside from Kane and Stones, it looks like an awkward scene from school photo day on PE benches. This casual, more stylish look is the new vision. But for M&S, this tailor partnership will be tough to justify in future.
We’ve just seen Palm Angels partner with Argentina as their new off-pitch fashion partner. The Italian brand will be creating formal and leisurewear outfits for the national team. In stark contrast to M&S, Palm Angels is a brand you would have seen on many footballers’ IG feeds. This partnership also represents a shift in attitude from International football. National teams are now ready to ditch formalwear partners in favour of fashion partners.
It’s not all doom and gloom for M&S though. Their partnership with the legend Ian Wright works. When Ian Wright is promoting the M&S threads on Instagram it looks like something he could wear. The partnership is more suited to the demographic M&S fashion resonates with. Ian Wright will still be getting good visibility this summer at the Euros through his punditry appearances. Would it have been more profitable for M&S if they just sponsored the pundits? Shearer, Lineker and Wright head-to-toe in the M&S x England collection would have been more influential than the national team.
The current M&S tailor partnership expires in 2025. M&S can look back on the journey of being the tailor partner with fondness. But I don’t think they should renew. This presents an exciting opportunity for a new player to stake their claim as England’s fashion partner. It feels like a natural progression for Burberry. Especially when you consider their recent collaborations with Foden and Eze. Or it could be an opportunity for independent designers such as clothsurgeon or Daoud to disrupt and create some cool shit. A new partner that can create something the next generation of players will want to wear.
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